Hey, I've been having a major problem trying to do what should be a very simple thing to do, yet I've tried again and again to no avail.
I am simply trying to make a collar on this existing pattern I have, around the neck, but it just keeps folding back to where it was and I can't get it to stay roughly where it's supposed to be.
Initial Tunic Shape

Attempt #1


Attempt #2


And this is the reference image I am trying to copy exactly.

Does anyone know how I can get this to work? I just can't seem to figure it out on my own - it'd be much appreciated to get some help!
First, find some pattern references for the location/period. This looks something like a modified Polish kontusz , or a Turkish or Russian styled caftan . In either case, modify it, so that the right-side [left on your screen] pattern piece (which is on top) would extend over to the left shoulder, and drop down from there to the hem. In this time period, they wouldn't use curved armholes, just straight-cut pattern pieces. They usually have inserts in the armpit area to allow for movement.
Second, you will need to make the upper (shoulder) area a bit wider and looser. Having the garment fit so snugly across the upper torso will put stress on the fabric and pull it out of position. That is what is happening to the collar: the pull is making it do that. Again, make the collar a bit longer, so there is less pulling out of position.
Third, make the sleeves a bit wider, as they too are too tight around the thickness of the arms. This style of garment is essentially an overcoat, and needs to be loose enough to go over other clothing.
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