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Assyrian Clothing Patterns + How To Wrap Cloth Efficiently?

  • rosemaryr Comment actions Permalink

    While it *can* be done by wrapping, it is probably more efficient to fake it.  Sew each 'layer' to the one above/below.  Hide the seams with the fringe. End up with the torso pieces being loose.

    I ran into the same issue many years ago with a Chinese dress style.  I did it both ways. (Let me dig up the pictures... be right back.)

     

  • rosemaryr Comment actions Permalink

    Here is the 'faked' version of a Chinese Hanfu dress.

  • rosemaryr Comment actions Permalink

    Hmm.  Can't find the fully wrapped version quickly.  I must have it archived somewhere, and will have to dig for it.  

    But I can say that it does get pretty hard to manipulate the cloth.  You best bet is to play with the Bounding Volumes/Arrangement Points and the wrapping it can do.  Start with the torso BV.  Create a long horizontal rectangle of cloth and assign it to the BV such that there will be overlap (MD will spiral the overlap for you). 

    Then, change the Orientation setting (found in the Property Editor under Arrangement) so there is a spiral effect.  From there, you can manipulate easier to your final liking.  I would suggest lowering the cloth on the vertical axis at this stage, so it does not interact with the arms, then do the hand-controlled manipulation to get it over the torso and shoulders.

     

  • rosemaryr Comment actions Permalink

    A few last words.  Some of your reference pics are not to be taken as fully informational.  The artist(s) may not have fully understood the way the garment is held together, and did some faking of their own to create the image.

    You may want to create a separate skirt and torso for this style, as that may be easier to control.  Hide the join with the wide belts shown, or cover the waistband with the torso piece hanging over it.

  • Pratt Ben Comment actions Permalink

    Hey Rosemary, thanks again for the really useful information! That twirling shape using a rectangular pattern is exactly what I was looking for; I can basically do that for the initial shape then droop the top half it over the shoulders manually with the bottom half frozen. As you say, I can make a separate fringe to cover up any odd areas behind the twirl if I need to stitch for whatever reason while doing it. I also agree in that I should probably do the skirt separately from the top half; it'll make it easier to control, plus I can hide it with the different variations of belts I'll be putting on the final characters around the waist area.

     

    Yes, you are also right about the references - I had a feeling that the artist who created these illustrations may have taken some artistic license themselves and faked it a bit as you said, but it's unfortunately the only semi-realistic styled depiction of that tunic I've seen before so far; the rest are just stone-like reliefs which aren't any better.

     

    I'll start work on this tunic in a couple days time and show you the final results!

  • rosemaryr Comment actions Permalink

    Here are a few more construction tips to help.

    Use the Tack to Avatar tool to hold up the cloth to the torso.

     

    Then, use some pins to mark the waistline.  On the 2D pattern, lay down an internal line where the pins are, then remove the pins.  Apply an Elastic effect to that line.

    You may need to adjust thing afterwards, but this will help the construction a good deal more.

  • rosemaryr Comment actions Permalink

    And a further, fun historical tip... here's the drawing I based that Chinese dress on.  I assume it's fairly accurate, since the original image was in Chinese.  ;)

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